Design flow: From sketch to 3D garment (left) to real (right)

Design flow: From sketch to 3D garment (left) to real (right)

 

Creating a Virtual 3D Prototype

Recently, we challenged Browzwear student intern Alyssa Kiriakedis of Oregon State University, to create a virtual garment prototype in Browzwear’s VStitcher that could eventually be compared to a sewn sample, fitted specifically to her own body. She first created an avatar based off of her own body measurements and shape. She then drafted garment patterns, observed fit issues seen on her 3D prototypes, and adjusted her garment patterns accordingly.

Avatar Creation Process

Fabric Testing and Garment Construction

Alyssa tested the specific fabrics she planned to use for constructing the garment and brought their physical properties into VStitcher to ensure her 3D prototype was displaying the proper physical attributes.

Prototype Progression

After achieving the desired 3D prototype, she printed her garment patterns in full-scale and sewed a real-life prototype, which enabled her to observe the accuracy and effectiveness of a 3D apparel development process.

Final pattern and Prototype

The Final Result: True-to-Life 3D

Going into the project, Alyssa was not sure that the final garment would turn out the way she imagined.

“I had done my best at creating an avatar accurate to my body and creating a 3D prototype that fit my avatar; however, with no real-life samples I couldn’t physically check that my work was accurate,” Alyssa said. “Once I reached the final stage of the project and constructed my garments, I was thrilled to find that not only did they fit me, but they also draped quite similarly to how the program had portrayed them in 3D.”

Alyssa says that working through her project instilled trust in the 3D development process and got her excited to experiment more with the potential of 3D in the apparel industry.
To read more about Alyssa’s project or to see screenshots and images, visit her portfolio site

Sewn Garment Views with 3D Render

Sewn Garment Views (images on the left) with 3D Render (far right)

Fabric folds are present in many of the garments we wear every day. Collars or lapels are the most common garment attributes for a fold application, but cuffs, hems and other casual neckline designs can utilize folding.

The construction and execution of the fold has a big visual impact on the garment design. Dress shirt collars have a very crisp and stiff fold, while turtlenecks and polo collars have a casual and soft fold. Each of these folds match the overall garment design and fabrication.

Browzwear’s software offers 3 options to create the fold finish to match your garment. The folding options can be applied to your fold line and will affect the final simulated result of your 3D fold.  It’s easy to switch between the fold finishes as you are designing in the software to choose the option that’s best for your garment.

Soft foldSoft Fold:  A soft fold line will produce a very casual looking result. It can be used on polos with a casual rib collar, jackets or sweatshirts with thicker or fluffier fabric, or button up shirts with less structure (think Hawaiian shirts).

Example of a soft fold

Sharp FoldSharp Fold:  The visual result of the sharp fold will have a crisp, ironed look.  This fold is normally used for formal dress shirts and suit jackets.

Example of a sharp fold

 

Normal FoldNormal Fold:  Landing somewhere in between soft and sharp, the normal fold line is very versatile and will produce an intentional fold without the formality of the sharp fold.  This fold type can be used across casual, sportswear, and formal garments.

Example of a normal fold

 

We’re pleased to announce the release of VStitcher 7.6 and Lotta 3.6.  In addition to the very exciting addition of SmartDesign, there are new features and improvements in this release that we would like to share with you.

In this release we are also introducing Browzwear Labs, early access to new features that are still in development.  Please try them and send us your feedback!

Highlights:

  • New user experience for materials including a hoverboard Color Picker, Image Editor and Geometry Editor.
  • Fluent user experience for Pen Tool: Edit, add and remove points while drawing, with a single tool!
  • New hanger avatars: Simulate garments on a hanger with two native hanger avatars.
  • Blending mode for materials (labs): Apply overlay blending of layers such as artwork and wash effects over fabric.
  • Blender cloud rendering (labs): Render garments in the cloud and continue to work freely using an integration with RenderStreet (license required).

And there is much more!

Click here for the complete release notes.

Click here to download the new versions.

We’re excited to announce SmartDesign, a creative new approach to fashion design.

SmartDesign brings every aspect of a garment – from silhouettes and trims, to fabrics and workmanship – together into smart templates so you can experience a vast array of design variations with a click.  See for yourself!

Fast and Fluent Design

Design a single garment or a complete collection more quickly and fluently than ever. You’re in control with Smart Templates that are pre-configured to include everything you need. Make and save as many variations as you like, even transfer your designs from one silhouette to the next in real-time.  Do you want to see how that all-over print would look on a tighter fit, with bell sleeves or a hoodie? Now you can!

Design for Manufacturing and Calendar

Design for Manufacturing is finally a reality. With the ability to configure your own Smart Templates, you know that every design can be manufactured according to specification.

Design to Cost

Eliminate errors and unnecessary samples. Smart Templates include not only your materials and trims, but also predefined metadata like cost and manufacturing lead time, so you can maximize creativity, while staying on time and within budget.

Learn More!

Whether you are a 3D expert, or taking your first steps on this journey, you’ll want to experience the power of SmartDesign. We’re also here to help you define a strategy and get SmartDesign implemented for your organization.

Contact us to get started

We’re pleased to say that WhichPLM has selected Browzwear as the subject of their first 3D Supplier Evaluation.  Using the same expert approach to product evaluation that they have brought to PLM, the team has defined a new set of scientific assessment criteria designed to benchmark 3D solutions and their vendors in the areas that really count for retailers and brands looking to find the right solution to fit their needs, and to deliver a return on their investment.

Visit WhichPLM to download the evaluation and to learn more about how 3D is shaping the apparel industry today.

 

Hed Mayner is doing incredible things with menswear, using the language of design to express body language. Behind the scenes, Hed is just as innovative when it comes to how he designs his clothes. He works closely with a 3D product development specialist to realize his vision. Watch the video to get a peek behind the scenes.

 

Columbia Sportswear have always been innovators when it comes to fashion. Now they are also innovating with technology that enables them to get even more creative while saving time and reducing waste. Get a glimpse of how a leading sportswear company is leveraging the power of 3D for a digital process.

Pattern shapes can often have small differences in edge lengths and edge shape from front to back or from left to right. These small differences can have a big impact on fit. For example, in a raglan sleeve, it’s essential to stitch the sleeves correctly, or the armhole seam will show extra fullness. Since the differences in edge curve are very small, errors can sometimes occur during production. Using 3D simulation you can verify that the stitching instructions are correct before samples are made.

For example, take this hoodie with raglan sleeves. In the first 3D simulation in VStitcher, the sleeves are sewn correctly:

Correct sleeve

 

In this second simulation, the sleeves are flipped back to front so that the length of the edges isn’t equal. You can clearly see the extra fullness at the front armhole caused by the incorrect stitching:

Flipped sleeve

 

Here are the patterns. On the left, the two sides of the sleeve are correctly aligned and the edge lengths are equal. On the right, the sleeve pieces have been accidentally reversed, resulting in a small difference in edge length and poor fit in the finished hoodie.

Correct stitching of sleeves

Wrong stitches for flipped sleeves

With VStitcher, what you see is truly what you get, even when it comes to those small things that have a big impact on the final garment.

To learn more about simulating different edge lengths, read our post about gathering

To create gathering, pattern-makers attach two pieces of fabric, one with a longer edge and one with a shorter edge. The long edge is gathered into many small pleats in order to match the length of the shorter edge and create the gathering effect.

The length of the longer piece of fabric determines how the gathering will behave. With VStitcher’s true-to-life 3D simulation, you can view an accurate simulation of how the gathering with look after the pieces are sewn and experiment with different lengths until the desired effect is achieved.

Simulating gathering accurately requires an understanding how the fabric behaves not only in relation to the body, but in relation to the way it is sewn. With VStitcher, you can be confident that the sample you receive will look the same as the 3D simulation.

3D Illustration Created with VStitcher

In the dress above, a large amount of fabric is used to achieve a richly-gathered skirt that compliments the belt. The shorter edge of the fabric, the belt, is 41.5 cm and the longer edge, the bottom of the skirt, is 138 cm.

The way fabric pieces are cut in relation to the fabric grain line has a big impact on the way a garment looks. While you’re designing or making the pattern using 3D software, you should be able to see the effect accurately in the 3D simulated garment.

For example, take this long T-shirt. The bias-cut drapes softly. The straight-cut is stiffer, and there are fewer folds in the fabric.


What is the Grain Line?

The grain line is the direction of the weave in which the thread runs the entire length of the fabric and is parallel to the salvage.  For fashion designers and pattern makers, it refers to the way a pattern is cut when it’s laid out on the fabric, which affects the way the final garment stretches and drapes.

When a “straight cut” is used, that means the grain line is parallel to the vertical thread (the warp) of the fabric.  This is the most common placement.


In the “bias cut”, the piece is cut 45 degrees in relation to the vertical thread in the fabric. The bias cut is most often used in evening wear, bridal gowns, couture and other high-end garments.  Bias-cut garments have a softer look with more ripples.

True-to-Life 3D Grain Line Simulation

Since the bias-cut is typically more costly, it’s important to visualize the effect and evaluate the benefits before manufacturing. With true-to-life 3D, that’s possible. Here you see the same dress, with the same fabric on the same model – once straight cut, and once cut on the bias. With vSticher, it’s simply a matter of indicating on the pattern how the fabric should be cut.

Straight-2d-3d

Straight Cut

Bias-2d-3d

Bias Cut


We designed a dress for the bridesmaids at a friends’ wedding using Lotta 3D design software by Browzwear.

As you can see, the dress uses a sequined material. We wanted the sequins to sparkle realistically in the 3D simulation, just like they will when the bridesmaids dance. You can easily visualize this effect in Lotta using photorealistic 3D features like Specular Map.

The fabric we scanned doesn’t include information about how the sequins reflect light. The way to achieve the sparkly effect is to add a Specular Map to the material that defines the parts of the fabric that will shine.

We created a Specular Map in Photoshop using Replace Color, and loaded it into the specular channel of the material.

Base texture (Diffuse map)

Base texture (Diffuse map)

Shininess texture (Specular map)

Shininess texture (Specular map)


Now, when you watch the 3D simulation of the dress, the sequins reflect the light realistically. Watch the sequins sparkle in the video clip below. We can’t wait for the wedding!

Lenny-Weiss-Spotlight

VP of Sales | North America

LENNY WEISS

We’re very pleased to welcome Lenny Weiss, Browzwear’s new VP of Sales for North America. Lenny has a long, successful track record in Sales Management and comes to us from one of our technology partners. Throughout his career, Lenny has sold a variety of digital manufacturing solutions for the apparel industry including CAD, ERP, and PLM, which has given him an in-depth understanding of the importance of 3D to an end-to-end digital workflow. His experience will be a tremendous asset to our customers.

Lenny, please tell us a little about yourself:

I have been involved with the apparel industry for a long time. I have seen the vital role that new technologies play in enabling apparel companies to grow and manage their business. I actually started out on the technology side and at one time I was Director of Information Systems for HIS Sportswear (Chic Jeans).

However, being a people person, I was always drawn to being in front of customers, sharing ideas and making a difference. I was sitting at the wrong side of the table, so I switched to the sales and marketing area. Sometimes change is difficult but for me it has been a blessing. Working with people, meeting customers, helping them realize how technology can benefit their companies, helping clients face and overcome challenges, have all been so rewarding.

My last position was at Yunique Solutions, a PLM start-up. I helped build it into a major PLM player which was eventually acquired by Gerber Technology. My experience at Yunique made it clear to me that to complete the digital value chain, 3D was a requirement.

 Why did you join Browzwear?

From networking over the years I was familiar with the 3D software suppliers for the apparel Industry. After doing my due diligence, I found that unlike conventional 2D companies that also do 3D, Browzwear is the only true 3D supplier for the apparel industry. Browzwear is the only supplier with a solution for both PC and Mac environments – essential for accommodating all of the players in the digital workflow. And Browzwear holds the patent for 2D to 3D simulation in the apparel industry. But the most important reason I joined the company is Browzwear’s dedication to making 3d as simple and user friendly as possible.

 What do you hope to accomplish with Browzwear?

I want to help teams – both users and management – experience how 3D software can make a real difference; how it can begin with their creative processes and flow throughout their organization from design to tech design, production, marketing, sales, catalog, internet buying, line planning…the sky’s the limit. It dramatically reduces product development time and the number of samples and enhances creativity. Browzwear 3D makes life easier and more exciting. It has already affected mine for the better and I look forward to sharing that gift with our customers.