Design flow: From sketch to 3D garment (left) to real (right)设计流程:从零开始到3D服装(左)到实物(右)caption]

创建虚拟3D原型

最近,我们给俄勒冈州立大学(Oregon State University)在Browzwear的实习生Alyssa Kiriakedis提出了一项挑战,要求她在Browzwear的VStitcher中以自己的身体为基准,创建一个虚拟服装原型并最终与缝制的样品进行对比。她首先根据自己的体尺测量和体形创建了一个模型,然后绘制服装版形,在3D原型中观察并发现合身方面的问题,然后相应地调整她的服装版形。

模型创建流程

布料测试和服装制作

Alyssa测试了她打算用于制作服装的特定布料,并且将布料的物理属性导入VStitcher,从而确保她的3D原型能够展示出布料正确的物理属性。

原型演变

在完成理想的3D原型后,她按照原尺寸打印了服装版形并且缝制了实物原型,她因此能够观察到3D服装开发流程的精确度和有效性。

[caption id="attachment_6496" align="aligncenter" width="1137"] 最终版形和原型

最终结果:逼真的3D效果

参与项目之时,Alyssa并不确定最终服装效果是否会如她想象那般。

“我尽力按照我的身体尺寸精确创建了模型并且创建了一个与我的模型相符的3D原型;然而,没有实物样品我无法实质上地判断我工作的精确性。” Alyssa说道,“当我接近项目尾声并且制作出我的服装时,我发现它们不仅对我而言很合身,其垂褶也十分接近3D软件中的描绘。

Alyssa说,通过参与此次项目,逐渐树立了她对3D开发流程的信任并使她非常乐于继续尝试3D技术在服装行业的潜在运用可能性。详细了解Alyssa的项目或查看截图和图像,请访问她的 作品网站

Sewn Garment Views with 3D Render

缝制的服装视图(左侧图像)及3D渲染图(最右侧)

我们如今所穿的很多服装的布料都运用了折线设计。衣领或翻领是服装属性中最常见的折线运用,但是袖口、衫脚和其他休闲领口设计也可以使用折叠设计。

折线的构造和使用对服装的设计具有很大的视觉冲击。礼服衬衫的折线干脆、刻板,而圆翻领和波罗领的折线随意、温和。这些折线的设计都与服装的整体设计和构造相匹配。

Browzwear的软件提供三种与您的服装匹配的折线设计选项。折叠可以运用在折线之处并且将影响您的3D折叠设计的最终模拟效果。当您在软件中设计时,可以轻松在不同折叠选项间切换,从而选择最适合您服装的选项。

Soft fold温和折叠::  温和折叠将产生非常休闲的视觉效果。可以用于使用休闲罗纹领的波罗衫、夹克衫或使用厚布料或毛绒布料的长袖运动衫或者构造较简单的扣领衬衫(比如花衬衫)。

Example of a soft fold

Sharp Fold尖斜折叠:  尖斜折叠会产生干脆、熨烫的视觉效果。这种折叠设计通常用于正式礼服衬衫和西服外套。

Example of a sharp fold

 

Normal Fold普通折叠:  介于温和以及尖斜折叠之间,普通折叠线运用非常广泛,会产生刻意的折叠效果但是并无尖斜折叠的正式感。这种折叠可以用于休闲、运动装和正式服装。

Example of a normal fold

 

We’re pleased to announce the release of VStitcher 7.6 and Lotta 3.6.  In addition to the very exciting addition of SmartDesign, there are new features and improvements in this release that we would like to share with you.

In this release we are also introducing Browzwear Labs, early access to new features that are still in development.  Please try them and send us your feedback!

Highlights:

  • New user experience for materials including a hoverboard Color Picker, Image Editor and Geometry Editor.
  • Fluent user experience for Pen Tool: Edit, add and remove points while drawing, with a single tool!
  • New hanger avatars: Simulate garments on a hanger with two native hanger avatars.
  • Blending mode for materials (labs): Apply overlay blending of layers such as artwork and wash effects over fabric.
  • Blender cloud rendering (labs): Render garments in the cloud and continue to work freely using an integration with RenderStreet (license required).

And there is much more!

Click here for the complete release notes.

Click here to download the new versions.

We’re excited to announce SmartDesign, a creative new approach to fashion design.

SmartDesign brings every aspect of a garment – from silhouettes and trims, to fabrics and workmanship – together into smart templates so you can experience a vast array of design variations with a click.  See for yourself!

Fast and Fluent Design

Design a single garment or a complete collection more quickly and fluently than ever. You’re in control with Smart Templates that are pre-configured to include everything you need. Make and save as many variations as you like, even transfer your designs from one silhouette to the next in real-time.  Do you want to see how that all-over print would look on a tighter fit, with bell sleeves or a hoodie? Now you can!

Design for Manufacturing and Calendar

Design for Manufacturing is finally a reality. With the ability to configure your own Smart Templates, you know that every design can be manufactured according to specification.

Design to Cost

Eliminate errors and unnecessary samples. Smart Templates include not only your materials and trims, but also predefined metadata like cost and manufacturing lead time, so you can maximize creativity, while staying on time and within budget.

Learn More!

Whether you are a 3D expert, or taking your first steps on this journey, you’ll want to experience the power of SmartDesign. We’re also here to help you define a strategy and get SmartDesign implemented for your organization.

Contact us to get started

We’re pleased to say that WhichPLM has selected Browzwear as the subject of their first 3D Supplier Evaluation.  Using the same expert approach to product evaluation that they have brought to PLM, the team has defined a new set of scientific assessment criteria designed to benchmark 3D solutions and their vendors in the areas that really count for retailers and brands looking to find the right solution to fit their needs, and to deliver a return on their investment.

Visit WhichPLM to download the evaluation and to learn more about how 3D is shaping the apparel industry today.

 

Hed Mayner正在以前所未有的方式制作男装,运用设计语言表达身体语言。在幕后,Hed就像他设计服装时一样具有开创性。他与3D产品开发专家紧密合作以实现其愿景。观看视频,了解幕后故事。

 

Columbia Sportswear始终是时尚界的革新者。现在,他们还开创性地运用能够提高他们的创造性同时节约时间和成本的技术。了解顶尖运动装公司如何利用3D技术展开数字化进程。

不同版形的前后或者左右边缘长度和边缘形状通常会有微小的差别。这些微小的差别却对合身有着重大的影响。比如,对于连肩袖而言,正确的缝合非常重要,否则袖孔的缝合线就会导致褶皱产生。由于边缘曲线的差别非常小,因此生产期间会容易出错。通过3D模拟,您可以在制作样品之前检查缝合说明是否正确。

比如,以下列的连肩袖卫衣为例。在VStitcher的第一个3D模拟效果图中,袖子的缝合是正确的:

正确的袖子

 

在第二个模拟图中,袖子版型发生180度翻转,因此边缘的长度不对等。您可以清楚地看到由于缝合错误导致的前端袖窿孔产生褶皱:

翻转的袖子

 

以下是版型。左侧,袖子的两边正确对齐,边缘长度相等。右侧,袖子被放反,导致边缘长度发生微小的差别,成品卫衣的合身效果就会欠佳。

正确的袖子缝合

导致反袖的错误缝合

VStitcher可以确保您所见即所得,哪怕是这些会对服装的最终效果产生重大影响的小细节。

详细了解关于模拟不同边缘长度的信息,请阅读我们的关于缩褶的贴文 。

To create gathering, pattern-makers attach two pieces of fabric, one with a longer edge and one with a shorter edge. The long edge is gathered into many small pleats in order to match the length of the shorter edge and create the gathering effect.

The length of the longer piece of fabric determines how the gathering will behave. With VStitcher’s true-to-life 3D simulation, you can view an accurate simulation of how the gathering with look after the pieces are sewn and experiment with different lengths until the desired effect is achieved.

Simulating gathering accurately requires an understanding how the fabric behaves not only in relation to the body, but in relation to the way it is sewn. With VStitcher, you can be confident that the sample you receive will look the same as the 3D simulation.

3D Illustration Created with VStitcher

In the dress above, a large amount of fabric is used to achieve a richly-gathered skirt that compliments the belt. The shorter edge of the fabric, the belt, is 41.5 cm and the longer edge, the bottom of the skirt, is 138 cm.

The way fabric pieces are cut in relation to the fabric grain line has a big impact on the way a garment looks. While you’re designing or making the pattern using 3D software, you should be able to see the effect accurately in the 3D simulated garment.

For example, take this long T-shirt. The bias-cut drapes softly. The straight-cut is stiffer, and there are fewer folds in the fabric.


What is the Grain Line?

The grain line is the direction of the weave in which the thread runs the entire length of the fabric and is parallel to the salvage.  For fashion designers and pattern makers, it refers to the way a pattern is cut when it’s laid out on the fabric, which affects the way the final garment stretches and drapes.

When a “straight cut” is used, that means the grain line is parallel to the vertical thread (the warp) of the fabric.  This is the most common placement.


In the “bias cut”, the piece is cut 45 degrees in relation to the vertical thread in the fabric. The bias cut is most often used in evening wear, bridal gowns, couture and other high-end garments.  Bias-cut garments have a softer look with more ripples.

True-to-Life 3D Grain Line Simulation

Since the bias-cut is typically more costly, it’s important to visualize the effect and evaluate the benefits before manufacturing. With true-to-life 3D, that’s possible. Here you see the same dress, with the same fabric on the same model – once straight cut, and once cut on the bias. With vSticher, it’s simply a matter of indicating on the pattern how the fabric should be cut.

Straight-2d-3d

Straight Cut

Bias-2d-3d

Bias Cut


We designed a dress for the bridesmaids at a friends’ wedding using Lotta 3D design software by Browzwear.

As you can see, the dress uses a sequined material. We wanted the sequins to sparkle realistically in the 3D simulation, just like they will when the bridesmaids dance. You can easily visualize this effect in Lotta using photorealistic 3D features like Specular Map.

The fabric we scanned doesn’t include information about how the sequins reflect light. The way to achieve the sparkly effect is to add a Specular Map to the material that defines the parts of the fabric that will shine.

We created a Specular Map in Photoshop using Replace Color, and loaded it into the specular channel of the material.

Base texture (Diffuse map)

Base texture (Diffuse map)

Shininess texture (Specular map)

Shininess texture (Specular map)


Now, when you watch the 3D simulation of the dress, the sequins reflect the light realistically. Watch the sequins sparkle in the video clip below. We can’t wait for the wedding!

Lenny-Weiss-Spotlight

VP of Sales | North America

LENNY WEISS

We’re very pleased to welcome Lenny Weiss, Browzwear’s new VP of Sales for North America. Lenny has a long, successful track record in Sales Management and comes to us from one of our technology partners. Throughout his career, Lenny has sold a variety of digital manufacturing solutions for the apparel industry including CAD, ERP, and PLM, which has given him an in-depth understanding of the importance of 3D to an end-to-end digital workflow. His experience will be a tremendous asset to our customers.

Lenny, please tell us a little about yourself:

I have been involved with the apparel industry for a long time. I have seen the vital role that new technologies play in enabling apparel companies to grow and manage their business. I actually started out on the technology side and at one time I was Director of Information Systems for HIS Sportswear (Chic Jeans).

However, being a people person, I was always drawn to being in front of customers, sharing ideas and making a difference. I was sitting at the wrong side of the table, so I switched to the sales and marketing area. Sometimes change is difficult but for me it has been a blessing. Working with people, meeting customers, helping them realize how technology can benefit their companies, helping clients face and overcome challenges, have all been so rewarding.

My last position was at Yunique Solutions, a PLM start-up. I helped build it into a major PLM player which was eventually acquired by Gerber Technology. My experience at Yunique made it clear to me that to complete the digital value chain, 3D was a requirement.

 Why did you join Browzwear?

From networking over the years I was familiar with the 3D software suppliers for the apparel Industry. After doing my due diligence, I found that unlike conventional 2D companies that also do 3D, Browzwear is the only true 3D supplier for the apparel industry. Browzwear is the only supplier with a solution for both PC and Mac environments – essential for accommodating all of the players in the digital workflow. And Browzwear holds the patent for 2D to 3D simulation in the apparel industry. But the most important reason I joined the company is Browzwear’s dedication to making 3d as simple and user friendly as possible.

 What do you hope to accomplish with Browzwear?

I want to help teams – both users and management – experience how 3D software can make a real difference; how it can begin with their creative processes and flow throughout their organization from design to tech design, production, marketing, sales, catalog, internet buying, line planning…the sky’s the limit. It dramatically reduces product development time and the number of samples and enhances creativity. Browzwear 3D makes life easier and more exciting. It has already affected mine for the better and I look forward to sharing that gift with our customers.